Kitchen 10: Marmalade Ice Cream!

I love marmalade, I like that grown up bitter sweet flavour and the freshness if orange that its able to retain.

Here in England it’s at this time of year when the Seville Oranges from Spain make their brief seasonal appearance.

These odd bitter oranges make the very best marmalade and are marvellous for any savoury recipe that uses orange juice, especially very old ones, as once these were the only oranges available.

I’m not going to list preserving recipes, everyone has their own favourite one or their own favourite brand. A plug here for the Prince of Wales Duchy brand, the Clementine Marmalade is to die for.

But I am going to encourage everyone to do more than lavish it on toast in the morning.

Buy a tub of your favourite vanilla ice cream, allow it to thaw to the point where you can just stir it about and add half a jar of marmalade. You may need to soften it if its a very well set one, warm it gently and add some orange juice ( or lemon or lime or grapefruit depending on the type), cool and then fold the preserve through the ice cream and refreeze.

If you have an adult audience, and in my experience kids don’t much like marmalade, add a slurp of Cointreau.

Serve it with some nice short bread biscuits ( cookies for all you Americans)

Published in: on February 24, 2007 at 12:47 pm Leave a Comment

Kitchen 9: Maid’s Autumn Booze and Hedgerow Trifle.

You need Autumn Booze to make Hedgerow Trifle, so a year before you want to eat the trifle……

Lay down damsons in brandy just as you would in Summer Booze. Don’t use good brandy, any moderately priced one will do very well, but avoid stuff that takes the vanish off wooden surfaces. Make a small nick in each of the damsons to allow the juice to run free.

When you eventually rack it off you will have a deep purple liquid that smells heavenly. You can use this in lots of ways apart from drinking it of course, try adding a spoonful to a plum sauce, sweet or savoury.

Or, you can make Hedgerow Trifle.

You will need

A hazelnut sponge cake

Half a pint of poached blackberries

Damson brandy

Custard

Whipped cream

Toasted hazelnuts

First the sponge cake. If you can, buy it (no sense in making work for yourself), but if like me you have trouble finding a brand that actually tastes of hazelnut make your own.

The weight of two large eggs in butter and sugar creamed together until pale and fluffy.

Beat the eggs and add them slowly.

The weight of the eggs in s/r flour, but take out one heaped tablespoon of the flour and replace it with one heaped tablespoon of toasted ground hazel nuts. You can add more hazelnut if you like, but if you do add some baking powder to help the rise.

Pour into a greased cake tin and baked in a moderate oven until done.

 Next the blackberries.

I cheat. Put them in a microproof bowl with sugar to taste, cover and blast for 3 mins Take them out, stir and blast again for another three minutes. They need no more water than what clings to them after you gave them a quick wash.

You have poached blackberries, no saucepan to wash up and no indeliable purple splashes down the white top you forgot to take off before you started cooking. I have aprons, excellent chef style aprons and one day I will remember to wear them every time I cook.

(If you are feeding children, cook the fruit over the heat adding the damson brandy to them, this will burn off the alcohol.)

Find a nice big bowl and break up the sponge cake in the bottom, spoon the blackberries and a few spoonfuls of the damson brandy over the top and leave to soak for a couple of hours.

Cover with a layer of custard and top that with another of lightly sweetened whipped cream. Decorate with whole toasted hazelnuts or scattered chopped ones over.

Published in: on July 23, 2006 at 10:22 am Comments (1)

Kitchen 8: Maid’s Summer Booze!

I bet that got your attention!

I love summer soft fruits, strawberries, raspberries, loganberries, all the currants, they are all delicious.

So why not preserve them for winter.

We do I hear you cry, we can and bottle and jam and jelly. Well so do I when I can raise the strength, but one of my favourites is to make fruit liqueurs.

It is so easy.

Take a big preserving jar or bottle, the sort you can seal the lid down. Fill it two thirds full with your favourite soft fruit. Don’t pack it down, just tumble into the jar.

Now pour in enough sugar to come half way up the jar and then cover right to the top with the booze of your choice. 

I think vodka or brandy is best, but raspberries seem to respond very well too gin.

Seal, give a shake and leave for a few months.

Everytime you come across the jar give it an mild shake. The contents of the jar will look revolting, but have courage all will be well.

Afrer at least three months strain the whole lot through double muslin ( don’t squeeze, just allow to drip) and you will have the most beautifully coloured and flavoured sweet liquid with a kick like a mule! Bottle that and discard the stuff left in the cloth.

Done this way one bottle of booze can be turned into two bottles of liqueuer.

Now comes the best bit.

You can of course just drink them and very nice they are too, but you can do lovely things with them as well.

I soak cubes of sponge cake in strawberry vodka and then smoother them with whipped cream and toasted almonds for a grown up dessert.

This stuff isn’t for the children, strictly a grown up treat!

Add them to a fruit jelly (jello) to lift it skywards.

In hot milk for a night cap.

The possiblities are endless and these things keep well.

Published in: Uncategorized on July 17, 2006 at 2:56 pm Comments (1)

Kitchen 7: Maid’s Warm Trout with Hot Potato Salad

Having said all that about fish generally, I do still buy farmed fish. Unfortunately I don’t think it has the flavour of the wild version, but with a little care it can be made into something good.

I shouldn’t take any credit for this, because I read it somewhere. The trouble is, I can’t never remember where, so I cook I think the recipe said. It tastes great though!

You will need

I fresh farmed trout per person ( gutted and scaled)

Sliced onions

Pepper corns

Brown sugar

White wine vinegar

A bay leaf.

Salt

First the trout.

Fillet or not to fillet? You can always get your fishmonger to do this, but make sure you take out the pin bones as well. I tend to leave mine unfilleted, I’ve gone to the trouble of cooking it, they can go to the trouble of eating it.

Head on or head off? Mine aren’t worried, but if yours are, or the fish won’t fit in the pan, behead them by all means.

Do remove the fins though. And trim up the tail a bit.

Now prepare the cooking liquid. Fill a pan big enough to take the fish with water. Add the sliced onion, half a dozen pepper corns, the bay leaf, a dessert spoon of brown sugar, a generous pinch of salt and three tablespoons of white wine vinegar.

Bring to the boil and then add the fish.

Spoon off any scum that rises to the top and turn down to a simmer.

Poach the fish gently for about seven to eight minutes and then leave them to cool in the liquid.

When they are still just warm, lift them out and drain well, patting dry with kitchen paper. Discard all the cooking liquid, onions and spices.

Serve with hot potato salad.

You will need

Waxy salad potatos

A few little pickled gerkins

A handful of finely chopped fresh dill

Olive oil

Salt.

Boil the potatos until tender, drain and while they are still hot crush them or chop them up quickly. Throw in the dill and the pickles. Season with the salt and dress with the oil. Serve immediately.  

Published in: on July 15, 2006 at 3:55 pm Leave a Comment

Opinion 1: Fish

You knew it had to come!

I love to cook and I love to feed people, but we need to respect the things that provide us with food and the way its produced.

The first thing that needs respect is the land itself. Without being stupid about it, I try to buy organic. To be honest, apart from eggs, meat and milk, I don’t think you can tell a great deal of difference from the taste, even with veggies (sorry), but it is the care of the land and its long term ability to produce crops that should be the reason to buy organic.

If you eat meat and eggs then you should have a modicum of gratitude to the beast that provided it. At least allow them a reasonable life before you end it and use them. Respect, nothing more.

But fish is different.

All fish, except the farmed stuff is free range and organic and we are stripping the seas and waters bare! Traditional catches are down because stocks have been reduced to the point where they can’t reproduce themselves and the industry is turning to deep sea species.

Fish whose life cycle we don’t understand, but who probably have slow breeding rates. How long before they are reduced to near extinction levels?

I no longer buy marine fish. I’m not sure what the long term effects of farmed fish are, but it is a better option than lifeless oceans.

If we all gave the seas a chance to rest and the fish a chance to rebuild their numbers, there is no reason why a sensible harvest couldn’t be taken and continue to be taken, but not at the present rate of going.

If the fish go, so will all those other residents of the planet who eat fish. Whales, dolphins, seals and all those wonderous seabirds.

Next time you see a mountain of canned tuna, give a little though to just how many fish it took to fill those cans. And all the other can mountains in all the other supermarkets. And in all the supermarkets in all the other countries of the world.

  

Published in: Uncategorized on at 1:55 pm Leave a Comment

Kitchen 6: Chicken Liver Salad

Now half of you have gone “liver…yuck!” which is a pity because it can be delicious. I think most of us have hideous memories of childhood abominations served up in the name of “good for you”.

This might convert some liver haters.

First prepare your salad. A good mix of crisp and soft leaves. I like little gem, lamb’s lettuce and some sprouted seeds like mustard and cress, but use whatever you like best. Baby spinach is another good one, but avoid the more bitter red coloured leaves, I don’t think they compliment the soft velvet texture and taste of the livers.

Dress it with a good French dressing made from your best olive oil and put piles of it on individual plates.

For the livers you will need

About 4 rashers of smoked streaky bacon (the sort that goes crisp when fried)

Chicken livers. The amount will depend on greed, but they are filling, so temper greed with common sense.

Sherry vinegar (optional)

Oil for frying. Not your best oil, a bland one like sunflower, whatever you use every day.

Wash the livers in cold water, be gentle with them. Dry on kitchen paper.

Trim them well, discarding all and any yucky bits ( I recycle all those into a cat who is always very grateful and spends the next 3 hours sleeping it off like a lion after a eating an zebra) . Cut what remains into nice bite sized pieces.

Slice the bacon into cubes and fry in a tiny drop of oil until they go crisp. Lift them out of the pan, leaving as much fat behind as possible and drain on some more paper.

Toss on the livers. If there doesn’t look as if there is enough fat to cook them add the smallest knob of butter.

Fry them quickly until they are done, but still slightly pink in the centre, this doesn’t take long. Whatever you do, don’t over cook them, they will go tough and bring back all those memories of “good for you.”

Quickly deglaze the pan with a tablespoon of sherry vinegar. This isn’t vital, but it lifts the flavours wonderfully.

Serve straight onto your pile of dressed leaves and scatter the bacon pieces over the top.

I don’t think this needs anything else but some crisp fresh bread and butter to eat with it. Speaking for myself I think you want the pale creamy slightly salted continental butter with this, not the yellow, saltier stuff, but that is just me being picky.

For those cutting back on dairy, the bread could be dipped on some more of your best olive oil.

Published in: on July 13, 2006 at 4:35 pm Comments (3)

Kitchen 5: Eton Mess

Did a dish ever have a more unpromising title! Do not be put off.

You will need

Half a pint of double cream ( that’s heavy cream in America I believe)

Some meringues. I see no point in standing and making them for this, you just end up trying to find a use for a couple of egg yolks and finally end up throwing them out, buy a box full instead!

A punnett of strawberries ( about half a pound)

Whip the cream to the floppy stage.

Put the meringues in a bag and thump them with something heavy until they are crushed. Don’t try to get a universal crumb, a mix of bit sizes is best.

Crush the strawberries. Don’t be tempted to put them in the blender or processor, you will get to much juice. Mash them with a fork, it takes a few minutes, but it’s worth it.

Now just combine everything, cream, meringue bits and strawberries.

Deadly fattening of course, but wonderful to eat.

And this will go around about 6 people…or it should go around 6! I notice that left alone in the fridge it rapidly only goes around 4 people and if you take your eyes off it all that is left can be scrapped out with a finger.

Published in: on at 10:12 am Comments (1)

Kitchen 4: Pink Potatoes

Something really easy to liven up dinner and make the kids smile.

If you are roasting or sauteing potatoes, add a teaspoon of paprika either to the roasting oil or during the cooking.

It turns the spuds a lovely colour and adds an interesting flavour.

Go easy if you are using the hot or smoked stuff, they can make it a bit too exciting, but the sweet mild paprika is lovely.

Published in: on July 12, 2006 at 10:47 pm Leave a Comment

Pen 3: A Season of Change

Another short story I sent into a competition. It had to inspired by a painting and I liked the one below “A Garden” by Albert Moore. The word count was very tight on this, it had to be under 1500.

 

 

 

A Season of Change

 

They were watching her from inside the villa.

They always watched her, but there was no need, not any more.

Maybe in the beginning, but not now.

It was best not to remember the beginning, better to tuck it away in the back of her mind and try not to think of it.

He had, after all, been kinder than she’d expected.

Perhaps kinder than either of them had expected.

The garden began to calm her as it always had. Her hands moved among the blossoms, choosing and rejecting.

At first she’d come here to escape the long silences; the sound of his glass tapping on the table and the impatient drumming of his fingers.

This garden had been very different from the one at home, but it had been a refuge.

Somewhere away from him.

There had always been beauty here, but at first it had been strange to her. The plants and the herbs had been unfamiliar, and the scent that filled the courtyard had been softer and subtler than the rich, heavy fragrances of home.

Was it the paler light of this northern land that didn’t encourage the vibrant blooms of home?

Was that why he’d wanted her? To see if he could transplant the warmth and colour of the south to this land?

Once she’d believed that she would wither here and die, but she’d survived.

He’d had no patience with her and refused to allow her the solitude she’d craved.

He forced her to leave this place and visit other people.

At first she’d dreaded those visits. All the time she knew there were questions they longed to ask, remarks they hoped would fall unconsidered from her lips. Remarks that could be treasured and embellished and passed along. Words that would find their twisting, twining way back to him.

It was the gardens that had provided her with conversation and evasion. The long silences that come between strangers could now be filled with questions about what grew beyond the salon windows.

Sometimes she returned with a treasure. Some plant dug from its home to be replanted in what she’d now to call her home.

She wondered what the gardeners had felt about her small offerings. They’d never said anything, it wasn’t their place to say anything, but she’d found her new trophies didn’t often survive their exile.

So she’d taken their care into her own hands, until he’d seen her carrying the heavy jug. She’d recoiled at his rage and fled from him, but after that the gardeners watered and cared for everything.

Some of her plants were in flower now, things she’d planted with her own hands. A small part of herself given to this land so far from all she’d known.

She turned her back on the watching maid, there were tears on her cheeks and if they were seen he’d know within the hour.

He’d be angry and she couldn’t blame him for being angry. Tears weren’t part of the bargain he’d made.

Her fingers closed around the soft petals and crushed them.

It had been her father’s proud boast that he was so rich and so powerful that his daughters could choose their husbands. It’d been with smug satisfaction that he’d seen the eldest three married where they wished and their spouses grateful for the privilege.

Soon it would have been her turn; she’d have taken her place in Society and looked about her for that one special man. She knew that she’d know him the minute she saw him, he’d walked through her day dreams and her sleeping dreams.

Theirs would be a marriage without barriers;  their understanding of each other would be so complete that there’d be no misunderstandings, no wounded feelings or jealousies. Their devotion to each other would be total and there’d be no corner of their minds closed to the other; theirs would be a marriage of souls as well as bodies and minds.

She wondered again how her father could have done this to her. All her life he’d assured her of his love. A day had rarely gone passed without him telling her and her sisters how lucky they were to be so loved.

Even his most carping political opponents agreed that he was a devoted father.

If he’d only warned her, given her the smallest clue, things might have been so much better.

Mother had sent her to the garden with wine and glasses. Father was entertaining a very important guest; she must serve them and make herself agreeable.

He had been standing beside a trailing vine smothered with purple, crimson streaked flowers. Huge, soft blooms that strained the ground as they fell and carpeted the gravel. He’d been a weathered out crop of rock amid a lush jungle.

Their eyes had met and she’d felt uncomfortable, but unafraid. What had there been to be afraid of?

Father had introduced them and she’d been agreeable as good manners demanded, but he’d done no more than nod his head. She’d been slightly indignant at his gaucheness, but she’s poured the wine and tried to engage him in conversation, but he’d responded with only terse one word replies.

He might’ve been silent, but he’d never taken him eyes from her. They’d watched her every movement, every gesture. She’d felt trapped and had been very glad when Father had sent her away.

An hour later Mother had come and told her. There was no longer any money and although it wounded him, her father was going to be forced to give her in marriage in return for favours that would help restore his fortune.

He’d given her to the man in the garden.

Looking back she wondered why she hadn’t cried or screamed or pleaded, but she realised that she’d been in a state of shock.

It was full day before she was able to go to her father and ask him not to do this to her.

He’d wept and pleaded for her forgiveness, but when she’d told him that she was sorry to disappoint him, but she couldn’t marry this stranger, he’d changed.

The weeping stopped and in the storm of rage that followed she learned of the sacrifices he’d made for his children, the suffering he’d endured and how hurt he was to find that it had been for nothing. His favourite daughter didn’t love him enough to do this small thing in return for all that she’d received

She’d protested at the injustice of this and then he’d hit her. A single back hand blow to her face.

Dry eyed and silent she’d gone to her room.

Dry eyed and silent she’d gone to her wedding.

Father had wept again through the ceremony. He bewailed the necessity of it, tortured himself with recriminations and drowned his grief in wine, but he’d recovered swiftly enough when the settlement was signed.

What followed had been far worse. Once they were alone together she’d not been able to hide her distress or her repugnance. His anger had been shattering and although he’d not taken it out on her, the silence of his rage, the suppressed fury of his shame and disappointment struck at her far harder and scared her far more than any physical violence could have done.

He’d taken her north as soon as possible, wrenching her away from everything she’d always known.

It’d been a terrible journey full of uncomfortable silences and her uncontrollable tears. He’d barely spoken to her

Their first months together had been no better and she’d sunk into melancholy. It was all so far away from that marriage of two kindred spirits she’d always thought would be hers.

She tried to remember when it had changed, but there was no single moment. Slowly, as a garden grows, so the understanding between them had grown. The silences had become companionable, not uncomfortable.

Behind her, deep in the house, she heard the sound of his voice. He’d come home earlier than she’d expected.

It was wondrous how things grew, the flowers in her garden, the child in her belly and her love for this stranger.

Turning she held out her arms to greet him.

The End

Published in: on at 8:56 am Leave a Comment

Kitchen 3: Maid’s Mild Curry for the Fainthearted

Home cooked curry is one of those dishes that can be a real disappointment. To much chilli and not enough spice. It can certainly frighten off those curry novices who find they have a mouth on fire and wondering why they bothered.

This is totally phoney and no Indian in their right mind would give it houseroom, but as an introduction to the flavours and as a good dinner it takes some beating.

I large onion, peeled and sliced

2 cloves of garlic sliced

I small tub of greek style yoghurt ( the thick set stuff)

I can of coconut milk

Curry paste

Water or stock.

First fry the onion in some oil or oil and butter combination, once it begins to colour add the garlic. Don’t do it before or the garlic will burn and taste nasty.

When all that is nice and soft add as much curry paste as you think you will like. My lot like it hot, so I often add as much as half a jar, but novices might like to start with a couple of tablespoons.

Fry the curry paste, this is very important, you must cook the spices well to bring out the flavour.

Now the unsual bit, turn the heat down and start adding the yoghurt spoon by spoon. It shouldn’t curdle if you are careful, but don’t worry if it does, its not the end of the world.

Once all the yoghurt is in, dilute the mix with about half a pint of water or stock and add all the coconut milk.

This is your basic sauce, allow it to cook for a while to develop.

Now comes the fun!

You can cook lots of things in this sauce and have many variations.

For carnivores you can add chicken and allow it to cook in the mix and this will give you a lovely Chicken Korma style curry, mine like that best.

But for vegetarians, you can cook carrots and little florets of cauliflower for a good veggie curry. Potato and peas is another good combination.

You need to keep an eye on either version as it can catch at the bottom and burn. The liquid goes down very fast and there is nothing more off putting than black flecks in it.

I would avoid red meat cooked this way, for some reason it doesn’t really work.

What ever you decide, serve the result with plenty of rice and mango chutney if you’ve got it.

Published in: Uncategorized on July 11, 2006 at 11:54 pm Leave a Comment